Linen Lovers’ Guide: How to Tell High-Quality from Low-Quality Linen
Not all linen is created equal. Knowing how to spot high-quality linen can make all the difference in how your pieces look, feel, and wear over time. But with so many linen options out there, it can be hard to tell what’s real and what’s not.
That’s why we’ve put together this simple guide with 10 practical tips to help you shop with confidence and choose linen pieces that are authentic, durable, and worth the investment.
1. Check the weight
Linen comes in different weights, from light and airy to thick and structured. Often, quality linen falls within these ranges:
Lightweight linen: 90–130 gsm (best for breezy tops and summer dresses)
Medium-weight linen: 140–190 gsm (ideal for shirts, pants, and versatile dresses)
Heavyweight linen: 200–300 gsm (perfect for structured pieces and home textiles)
If you purchase medium-weight linen but it feels much thinner than expected, it may not be pure linen. Hence, we recommend always checking the weight before buying.
2. Test fabric strength
High-quality linen is inherently strong and doesn’t lose its shape easily.
To check for strength, gently pull the fabric in different directions. Authentic linen should feel sturdy and resistant to excessive stretching or tearing.
3. Consider the country of origin
The origin of your linen can tell you a lot about its quality. If a linen garment is made in a country with a strong textile heritage, it’s often a good sign of quality and authenticity.
At Nomad the Label, we source our linen fabric from France, where the flax plant thrives and is renowned for producing some of the world’s highest-quality linen. Our fabric is OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certified, meaning every piece is tested for harmful substances and is safe for your skin. We work closely with well-known factories in Bali, Indonesia, Vietnam, and India to produce our linen clothing ethically.
Together, this blend of European-sourced fabric and expert production across Southeast Asia ensures each Nomad piece is built to last and made to be lived in.
4. Look for natural creases
Linen has low elasticity, meaning it doesn’t spring back into shape like synthetic fabrics. Instead, it drapes beautifully, holding soft folds and gentle wrinkles that give it a relaxed, effortless look.
To test linen authenticity, crumple a small section of the fabric in your hand and then release it. If the fabric holds onto the wrinkles, it’s likely real linen. However, if a linen garment looks too perfectly pressed or wrinkle-free, it’s likely not 100% linen.
5. Feel the texture
Another way to identify real linen is by touch. Genuine linen has a slightly irregular texture with small slubs — thicker sections of yarn that create a natural, organic feel.
No matter the temperature, linen always feels slightly cool against the skin. If the fabric feels too warm, slippery, or overly soft, it may contain synthetic fibres rather than pure flax linen.
6. Check moisture absorption
Linen is highly absorbent, which is one of its standout qualities. You can place a drop of water on the fabric and watch how quickly it soaks in. Real linen absorbs moisture almost instantly, while synthetic blends or lower-quality fabrics may cause the water to bead up or take longer to penetrate.
Linen can absorb up to 40% of its weight in moisture before feeling damp. If the fabric resists water instead of soaking it up, it’s likely not pure linen.
7. Notice how it softens over time
High-quality flax linen gets softer with every wash. When new, linen may feel slightly crisp or textured, but with each wear and wash, it gradually becomes smoother and more comfortable without losing strength. While this is hard to test when shopping, it’s something to keep in mind for long-term quality.
8. Observe colour quality
Whether naturally undyed or hand-dyed, authentic linen should have a smooth and consistent hue without patches of discolouration or fading.
Natural linen shades can vary slightly due to factors like season and soil conditions, but the colour should always appear deep and well-saturated.
If a dyed linen piece looks uneven, overly faded, or artificially bright, it may not be made from pure, high-quality flax linen.
9. Recognise the signs of natural fibres
Did you know that if you held a flame to a piece of pure linen, it would release an earthy, papery scent, like dry leaves or wood? On the other hand, synthetic fabrics, tend to melt and give off a chemical smell.
Of course, you don’t need to burn your clothing to tell the difference. But knowing that real linen carries these natural qualities can help you feel more confident when assessing fabric authenticity. Trust your senses; genuine linen often just feels right.
10. Consider the prices
Price isn’t always a guarantee of quality, but extremely cheap linen is often a red flag. High-quality linen comes at a higher cost due to the raw material, intricate production process, and sustainable practices involved in its making. Pure flax linen takes time to produce, and brands committed to ethical sourcing and craftsmanship reflect this in their pricing.
While investing in quality linen may cost more upfront, its durability, breathability, and timeless appeal make it well worth it in the long run.
At Nomad the Label, linen has been at the heart of our designs from the very beginning. From relaxed linen tops to versatile dresses and tailored pants, we’ve spent years perfecting our range, ensuring every piece embodies comfort, quality, and longevity. Explore our linen collection to find your dream linen pieces.
